The cabinets in our house are plain and in bad shape. We can't afford to replace them, so we decided to try this Rustoleum Cabinet Transormations kit for $75 at Home Depot (good for up to 100 square feet of cabinets). It can be used on all wood, laminate, melamine, and metal surfaces! The Cabinet Transformations series comes in a few different options: they have kits for dark colors or light colors, one specifically for white, and one to refinish wood. Depending on the kit/color, I think you can achieve a stain-like affect for your cabinets, but our color was too dark for that. Instead, I think our cabinets ended up looking painted but still much improved in the long run.
I'm going to explain some information about the kit and how we went along with it. Any tips I can come up with I will be sure to mention.
First you pick out which kit you want to use--we wanted the dark colors kit--and then choose which color you want to change your cabinets to. The original color of your cabinets doesn't matter (going dark to light or light to dark, or changing the dark or light color of your cabinets to something else) and just about anything should work either way. In the video they show dark cabinets being painted a light color and it has impressive results.
For the dark color kit, they have 24 different color options to chose from; we chose "chocolate." You have to take it to the paint counter so you can get the base tinted to the color you choose. There are pictures on the box to show you the different colors (and you can see them here). Along with the "bond coat" (the colored base), there is a decorative glaze and a protective top coat. The kit shows you what the cabinet should look like with or without the optional decorative glaze. You can choose to not use the glaze, but you're still paying for it! There are only 11 light colors to chose from, and you can see them here. The glaze makes a big difference as far as the light colors go, and only a slight difference for the darker colors.\
- All of the products are water-soluble except for the protective coat (I think/assume since it's supposed to protect against stains and water). This makes cleaning up drips easy (even if you missed them and they dried on the table or floor) and paintbrush clean up easy as well--simply fill your used paint container with soap and water (I used dish soap) and mix it up real good with the paintbrush. Let sit for a while and then it all rinses out. I think products 1-3 are supposed to be water soluble, so you probably could just use water to clean them (soap makes it easier). But soap is definitely needed for the Protective Top Coat because it's like a glue.
There is no stripping or sanding needed since the kit comes with a deglosser and scrub pads to both clean and roughen the surface before you apply the color. And you don't need to prime either unless you're using unfinished wood. Also, the instruction booklet says if you have knotty pine cabinets, you'll need to prime the whole surface with a shellac base primer such as Zinsser B-I-N Primer. If you're painting over raw wood, they recommend Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer.
Most useful of all, it comes with an instructional DVD to show you how to do step by step!
There are a few materials that you need to buy separately for the kit: 3-2" synthetic brushes, a 2" foam brush, 2" painter's tape, drop cloths (we used the same plastic we'd used to paint the walls) , gloves, lint-free rags (at first we tried blue tough paper towels, but switched to old wash cloths), and disposable paint containers (mini roller paint tray--actually easier to hold than a cup-shaped container).
I also had saran wrap on hand to wrap my paint brush in and cover my paint container if I was going to take a break. I also ended up using a 1.5" brush for my cabinet frames because 2" was too large for the "rails" and "stiles." You might want to check your cabinets too for a proper-sized brush.
Our cabinets were filthy from I-don't-know-how many years and how many different people renting here, but I'm guessing 20 years without them ever being cleaned. The grime and grease was unbelievable. I definitely didn't want to leave the deglosser in the kit in charge of cleaning all the crud on them, so I spent many, many hours washing and scrubbing the cabinets with Scotch Sponges and a mix of water and Murphy's Oil Soap. I don't know if something else would have looked better, but I didn't want to really damage the cabinets in the effort of cleaning them. I had the Murphy's on hand since I found out that you're not supposed to use it on laminate floors, and it worked very well. I would recommend cleaning your cabinets if they seem extra greasy, and maybe clean the ones around the stove just to be safe.
|Gross cupboards! I couldn't believe I was using and living with a kitchen this grimy. I had to scrape off the gunk on the edges with a razor blade, then I scrubbed the hell out of them with a scrubby sponge and Murphy's Oil Soap solution. You can see the differences between the cupboard I'd cleaned and one I hadn't yet--both are from above the stove!|
Step #2: Bond coat; the painting part of the project. That's essentially it. It pretty much looks like paint and acts like paint, but it doesn't smell like paint. Actually, when I opened it I thought ours smelled like chocolate or a tootsie roll but then I thought that was absurd and put it from my mind. When my husband came home he said "wow, looks like chocolate and even smells like chocolate!" So I don't really know what that's all about....
The DVD shows you a tip for painting the cupboards--screwing drywall screws into pieces of wood to make a raised platform for the cupboard to sit on to make it easier to paint the sides of the cupboard doors. I'm not really sure why the screws were necessary and I think just the blocks of wood would've worked fine, but I guess it doesn't matter that much (Andy was glad to use his new saw to cut up some 2x4's he found behind the garage and drill some screws into them).
|The work room and the pieces of wood for propping the cupboards.|
I didn't have enough room to do all of the cupboards and drawers at the same time, so I had to do two sets (this only really got annoying when dry times turned into 8-12 hours). I put two coats of the bond coat on the frames and the front of the cupboards and drawers, and only one coat on the backs of the cupboards. As I said above, there isn't enough to paint the inside of the frames, the shelves, or anything but the front of the drawers. The bond coat dries in 2-3 hours. The cabinets are still fragile with the bond coat. It can get scuffed easily and water can do damage easily as well (I discovered this when I saw where some water had dripped onto the faux drawers beneath the sink--be careful!).
|Before and after the bond coat of a section of cabinets.|
We also had plenty of bond coat left over (by my calculations, we had around 77.5 square feet of cupboards to paint when the kit covers 100, and I only did one coat on the back of the cupboards), so I put two coats of the bond coat on the two doors leading out of the kitchen as well (only one side each). And we still have over half a can left over.
Step #3: Glaze. This was actually my favorite step because it was swift and easy and different. To glaze your cabinets, you brush it on with a sponge brush and then wipe it off with the cheesecloth they provide for you. Definitely wear gloves for this! And be careful to not leave any drips or build up on the edges. We decided to not glaze the backs of the doors since there really wasn't much point to it. It needs 8 hours to dry completely, so I did the frames of the cabinets just before bedtime to avoid any traffic while it dried. After the glaze dries it doesn't look much different than it did before--the cabinets still looked like they had a matte finish--but when I put on the protective coat they became shiny like I wanted and you could see the wood grain much more. We have almost a whole can of glaze left over.
- When you wipe off the glaze, you may or may not see little white fibers on the cupboard from the cheesecloth. Don't worry about this and don't try to repeatedly wipe them off, because it won't work! And they don't show up after the protective coat. If you're going to a lighter color you might not notice this at all.
|You can really see the shine of the glaze in this picture on the cabinet door in the foreground. My edges are not so neat--it was difficult trying to get them to look acceptable when they're only about 1/4 of an inch wide and the way it's designed is obnoxious.|
- If you're going to take a break or are done for the day, wrap your paintbrush up with saran wrap and cover your paint container with it as well (I covered my mini roller pan with saran wrap and then taped it down--these methods worked well enough for overnight). That works for any of the steps here. For the protective coat, if you allow the paintbrush to dry very much at all, then you end up with gummy, sticky glue on it and you'll need to change brushes because they don't brush very well that way. I changed paintbrushes about half way through because I noticed it gumming up on me while working.
This disaster could've been avoided if I had just done the edges and the FRONT first rather than the back, but of course I followed the instructions so this mess was visible on the front. Well, not completely avoided...but the lines would've ended up on the back of the doors which would've been fine-by-me! My husband went at it with a piece of sand paper which may or may not have been a good idea because took off the glaze (if not the paint as well--and in the surrounding area). So then I followed behind him with a paintbrush and the bond coat, but failed to go around with the glaze afterward because I didn't want to have to wait another day longer than this project was already taking.. After the protective coat dried, it's painfully obvious where this mishap occurred....so my cupboards now don't look nearly as good as they should. I'm not sure if repeatedly fixing it would help or hurt more.
|In this photo you can see clearly where I had painted over the sanded edge. The sanded area was wider than the line, obviously. I wish I done two coats of bond coat and one of the glaze, but I'm not going back now. You can really only see it like this with the flash--so I'm hoping in the dark kitchen it won't be so obvious. Yikes!|
I found a big scratch right on one of the cabinet frames after we put the doors back on (who knows how that happened), so I had no choice but to leave the scratch for all to see (it was painfully right at eye-height), or else patch it over with some of the base coat. Which I did. And I can't decide whether or not the scratch would be more noticeable or a lighter-colored brown on top of the nice darker brown. It's like dark chocolate vs. milk chocolate--BIG difference. Sigh...I had higher hopes for these cabinets. I have to admit they look way better than they did before, but if you stand closer to them than 5 feet away you start noticing all the little mistakes and what a poor job it was. Maybe painting something like that takes practice to make it look good....I've never painted walls or cabinets or anything similar to that before, short of a fort built in the woods with pressed wood boards when I was in my early teens. Quite a different painting experience!
The protective coat can dry for two hours and then you can carefully flip the door over and coat the other side, or so the instructions say. They continue on to say to let it dry 12-24 hours so it's a little weird that they let you flip it over and set it on screw heads to coat the other side. I let them dry overnight before I did the other side, especially since Step 4 seems to take a long time to do anyway.
Also, throughout all the steps, watch out for human and/or animal hair on the cupboards. I found a lot of hair getting stuck to the cupboards that I had to pick off as I went along (I suspect my fleece sweater was the culprit), especially on the frames for the bottom cabinets near the floor.
Step 5: Hardware. The instructions say that you can put the hardware back on the doors and drawers and even put them back on the frames after 12 hours of dry time for the protective coat--but they say that you should still not resume "full use" until 24 hours. What "full use" means, I'm not sure. So I waited 24 hours until I put it all back together. The cabinets should "cure" fully after 7 days and you're not supposed to use any cleaning solution on them until then.
Make sure you bring a hing with you to match up the correct size and kind: inset vs. overlay.
|The wood grains are easily seen after using this product.|
On poor quality/condition cupboards like ours I think paint might've been the wiser route. If you were dealing with better quality cabinets then maybe Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations might be a better choice than regular paint. Based on the video, if you're going from dark wood to a lighter color then it's definitely worth it and impressive.
We ended up doing around 77.5 square feet of cabinets and the front and back of one door all together, and we still have plenty of product left over to do more if I'd like to transform other furniture sometime. I closed up the different cans of product with saran wrap and the lids, and I'm going to seal it better with tape so that hopefully this stuff can be used in a few months. It goes farther than I had imagined it would and I think I have enough to do at least a dresser or a few smaller pieces of furniture.
Now, for the big reveal. I hope this post was helpful to someone out there!
|Hardware after (yay!)|
|Hardware before (those were used for knobs,|
and there were no pulls on the drawers) (yuck!)